Ethiopia

Internet connection dodgy in Ethiopia, but a mail came through from Marelie. 

1 February

Yesterday we cycled 30km/hr and then 37 km/hr to catch up with a faster group; we then did a few kilometers with them at a good speed of 30km/hr. We completed the day with an average of 29 km/hr. I was exhausted after the day and did not even take photos and decided to take it easier the next day.

Today we also had a good day of easy cycling. On the way, about 10 trucks with army tanks on passed us on their way to the north. We speculated that they must be on their way to man the border to Egypt.

Tonight we once again camped in the desert. The most difficult thing is to dig a hole in an open desert, so you have to wait for the dark so that no one can see you.

The stars are so lovely every night out here, and I even saw the Southern Cross. The Southern Cross in the north?

We are camping near a little town and walked over for a soft drink in the afternoon. The locals are very polite and friendly. Not all of them can speak English. We bought some dried dates at the one little shop and as we came out of the shop a new white land cruiser stopped next to us and 4 Sudanese men came up to us. They were all dressed in the white dress and head banners. The one man asked us where we are from and said that he just came from Johannesburg for a conference, and asked what we are looking for and whether we have been helped. I showed him my dates and he said it looks a bit dry but is OK. This he demonstrated by tearing open my plastic bag of dates and biting into one demonstrating it is good. The other locals then later said that they were government officials

Chef James out did himself tonight again with barbecue chicken, noodle salad and sweet pumpkin – delicious!

4 and 5 February

Start of Section 2 – The Gorge

First 2 days of 145 and 148 km was very hard. The first section was definitely just a warm up.

7 February

85 km – off road – mostly very corrugated

Early in the morning it was already warm and at lunch time 45oC! Cycling on the corrugated road was very difficult and my whole body was in pain. After lunch I went slower and slower which just made things worse and then I only finished at 17:00. We passed two very nice towns and in the evening the minister of the Dinder region came to our camp to bid as welcome. 

 8 February

The off road corrugation and heat of 50oC continuous! I was cycling with a cold for a few days and by now I was so tired, so tired. I cycled all day and only finished after 17:00 again. 

9 February

The day I Lost my Virginity aka EFI status..

I decided to rest today and rode on the truck for a rest. It was very nice to cross the border to Ethiopia early and we arrived at the Ethiopia camp at 14:00. 

Mentally I feel a lot better and think the rest of the tour is going to be more enjoyable again. I proofed to myself that I can get through pretty tough days.

10 February

Today we had a climb of 1200m. It was mostly rolling hills and a very enjoyable ride. So far the Ethiopian landscape is very beautiful and I cannot believe how fast it is changing from the Sudan desert. Tonight we are camping near a village and all the locals are surrounding us. The little children walk around the tents and made everyone a bit nervous. The women are very entrepreneurial and brought beers and Pepsi to us for sale. A lot of people were very sick during the night and there was a lot of diarrhea and vomiting. The campsite looked like a minefield the next morning.

11 February

Today we had a climb of 2200m! The morning was lovely and I enjoyed it to the lunch stop at 60km. Here most of the climbing was done. The country is very high populated and everywhere you see a lot of children. They are friendly and we talked. I could only go 5km/hr at times on the tough hills and then they would walk next to me, push me up while trying to unzip my saddle bag and take some stuff from there, One girl even tried to open my handlebar bag and tried to take my water bottles even. Friendly children. The when you ride away from you, you get a stone or 3 thrown at you. The Ethiopian children are very good with stone throwing – accurate and very hard over very long distances they will still hit you! They are also very good runners , at 11km/hr, they could still easily keep up with me and even op my saddle bag to take my tube.

10km after lunch at 70km I was depleted of all energy and then I let the lunch truck take me the last 30km to Gonder.

12 + 13 February

Gonder – I got the Ethiopia diarrhea stomach thing and was in bed for a whole day.. Stomach cramps etc! Luckily I had a hotel room – and the luxury of my own toilet! Only had to share with my roommate, Alice… shame, poor her!

14 February

15 February

Only one cycle day and then another rest day in Bahir Dar!

Tonight we had a party with the theme: “Where are you go?” After one day of cycling in Ethiopia you will have heard this 1000000000 times! 

Most people got dressed in traditional Ethiopian dress.. Teri as a woman??  Some dressed in SA soccer.. we are going to SA!

17 February – 21 February  Bahir Dar to Addis

Riding days from 167 km to start with to 89 km to climb out the Gorge!

This was a hectic week of hills, hills and more hills – or Rolling hills as Sharita calls them…

The Gorge was magnificent…the view of it that is! We started at 2460 m, then at 48km we descended 1860 m, then at 69 km we started the ascent of 1881m over 20km to finish at 2473 m! That is 13m higher than we started! It took me 3h40m to do the 20km climb! I had a few coke stops, water refreshers and an orange stop in between. The best time by the racers was 1h22min.

This week I was hit by a stone on my arm. The skin was actually broken, although I had a long sleeve top on and the area around the wound was swollen. While we were descending down another crazy hill at about 50km/hr a rock from out the trees hit my arm. The little sh*ts must have been waiting there in the trees. When I stopped, a few meters after the incident – they were already gone. Don’t know exactly what I would have done if I got them. I do have dreams of them bleeding and I get a smile on my face.. 

I think I got the stone throwing under control now – when I see a child with a stone, I point and scream at them and then they seem too afraid to throw! Otherwise if they have thrown the stone, I stop, but they just run away.

The convoy into Addis was a steep downhill. I could not feel my fingers any more after 10km of braking!

We are camping on the grass in front of an old hotel. There are no rooms available in the hotel.. They have been revamping for 2 years now or something. We do have a toilet and a shower that is a huge luxury now.

We also had very good pizza, burgers and fruit juices so far. All within walking distance from the camping are.

So long Sudan

When the Sudanese realise they are without a Marelie in their country things might go South.  Just look what happened in Egypt.  It is now the turn of the Ethiopians to be Marelied.* 

After three days of dirt roads resembling corrugated iron in temperatures of about 50°C, today was a truck day.  Now you may remember Marelie had a truck day here in Langebaan, but this time the truck worked in her favour.  It carried her instead of hitting her.  Off road meant that cycling ended only at 17:00.  Totally drained of energy.  Some cold or flu virus (yes in 50 °C) did not help.  She describes the 2000km to Khartoum as “training”.

Tomorrow the big climb start.  About 1000m or more.  Apparently 5 star rated.  I suppose it works inverse to the hotel ratings. 

*To be exposed to a Marelie.  Almost always a benevolent experience.

26 Jan

Wadi Halfi to Nile Camp – 150km

Sudan is absolutely beautiful – wide open stretches of sand, dunes and perfect road. We struggled a bit in strong head winds, but the group riding managed it well. The roads are in very good condition and the country so far looks very clean and the people are very welcoming and friendly.

The bread differs from the Egypt pita to a softer type of white round bread. Every day we are served this nice bread with tuna or egg and salad and of course peanut butter for lunch. For breakfast we have good old oats porridge and sometimes even muesli, fruit or pronutro. For Dinner we will have spaghetti bolognaise, meat and vegetables or mashed potatoes. After the ride of the day we always get soup to replenish. And furthermore we have 2 energy bars per day and energade as electrolyte drink and then we stock up on chocolate bars also – so lots of eating! I do not think I have lost any weight so far, as do most of the girls. The men seem to be losing weight more easily.

After a good day of cycling, averaging 25km/hr, we arrived at the camp at about 15:00. Then we went for a nice dip in the Nile. I even washed my hair.

27 Jan

Nile Camp to Nile Camp – 148km

Another day of long cycling. I was still so amazed at the beautiful landscapes.

Arriving in camp – we went for a swim in the Nile again. This time nice and deep and washed up.

My achilles tendon tinnitus has flared up again after the ride. I adjusted my seat a few days earlier, made it about 1cm lower and moved my seat to the back. It did help and  now my body just needs to get used to the long hours on the bicycle.

28 Jan

Nile camp to Dongola Zoo Camp

Today was an easy 107km of cycling. With an average speed of 27km/hr we were at camp nice and early. The camp is the Dongola Zoo, although we are the only strange animals here. As today is Friday, most of the shops are closed for the Muslim prayer day. We did get some fruit and chocolates at a shop and then had dinner at a place next to the road consisting of half a rotisserie chicken, rice and bread. It was delicious. The chef looked a bit nervous though having to feed so many hungry cyclists .

29 Jan

Rest day in Dongola Zoo camp

Relaxing day, waking up after 7:30am, although the prayers were about an hour long at 5am.

Washed the rest of our clothing, the bikes and trying to sort out the luggage. Most people's luggage do not fit in the lockers.

We had some falafels, fresh bread and fuul at a local shop in the market which was very good

30 Jan

Dongola to Dead Camel Desert Camp - 141km

Today we once again cycle on great roads and perfect conditions. The scenery stays the same open desert landscape, which is amazingly beautiful. Along the road we came across several dead animals and the camp actually had a dead camel!

1 Febr

Yesterday I was too tired to write or do anything.. I followed Peter and we cycled at 30km / hr and then 37 to catch up with the racer group. They usually go slower before lunch and then really take off. We then did a few kilometers with them at a good 30km/hr for a few km's until the group left us for a faster group. We kept our speed constant at about 29-30km/hr. I really pushed myself and was very tired when we got to camp. I did not even take one photo.

Today we started a little earlier and cycled with a very nice group. We averaged 30km/hr until lunch time, but after lunch we had some head winds and everyone suffered a little. It was a very good day and we took very nice photos of camels and people next to the road. The Sudanese are so welcoming and friendly.

About ten trucks with army tankers on passed us on the road, on their way up north. We speculated that maybe they want to man the border to Egypt with the protest happening there and all.

We once again camp in the desert. One of the most difficult things in the desert is to find a spot to dig a hole, without anyone seeing you. So you have to wait for the dark..

2 Febr

Desert Camp to Khartoum - 100km

This morning we cycled 66 km to lunch were the whole group gathered together to be escorted by police to Khartoum. It was a very long cycle... A rider in front of me did not see the train tracks and crashed - so I crashed into him. I luckily fell back on my bum and did not get hurt, neither did he. My bicycle tyre did burst.. which was an inconvenience for the whole group as the convoy had to be stopped. They provided me with another wheel and I could continue cycling. Tonight we are staying in the Acropole Hotel in Khartoum, which is a great hotel. We have free Wi-fi and the rooms are clean - and most important - we have a shower and a normal toilet. This may not sound like much - but after days of camping in the desert it is great!