From Zambia to Botswana to Namibia

17 – 22 April


Elephant Highway!

Sunday: 81km – crossing border into Botswana to Kasane

Monday: 159 km + 12km -> bush camp had to be moved because there were two lions and a python on the campsite where we were supposed to camp…

Tuesday: 158 km minus the 12 km – to Nata

Wednesday: 182 km to a Bush Camp

Thursday: 136 km to Maun

Friday: Rest day in Maun ;)

Crossing the border on the Kazungula ferry, from Zambia, you will find yourself within a few meters of a common point of the territories of four countries on the same time. That is Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia!

On the road to the ferry, leaving Zambia, we had an interesting encounter with an Elephant. Only a few weeks ago, the TDA owner – Mr Henry Gold was trampled by an elephant in India while riding sweep. He was badly injured, but it sounds like no permanent damage luckily. We were given a briefing on elephants on the road, to not come within 100meters of so from them. Elephants can reach speeds of 40 km/hr! So as a group of cyclists in front of us pass an elephant, he runs out of the bushes with his ears flapping, making loud noises. What was funny is that he then turns towards us, who is about 200m from that point, and start storming…. I was the first one to start cycling in the opposite direction! Hehe.. fastest I have ever gone. He then ambushed the next cyclist who tried to pass also. After about 10min he calmed down and we could pass.

That was also the last elephant I saw on the road, on this “elephant highway”.

The next day in Botswana, Darell, the lion and elephant walker joined us. He patrolled the road for lions and elephants during the day when we cycled and also the campsites. On Monday our camp had to be moved actually – because there was two lions and a python on our site… hmmm this is at least what Sharita told us.

The roads in Botswana are very flat... and very long… and the scenery did not change much.

I really enjoyed it to cycle with Deon. And off course it was also nice to not pitch my tent for a few weeks..

sunset over the Okovango Delta - view from our plane

the charging elephant -as we were leaving Zambia

at the ferry crossing to botswana

Sarge at a coke stop

Deon on the road

first sign showing SA!!

Primitive modes of transport

Amman, Ribca, Ram and CrisP... calling themselves: "Sharita's nightmare". They showed up like this in the camp. Shopping was done in Gobabis

23 – 28 April

Saturday: 157 km – Maun to a Bush Camp

Sunday: 140 km – to Ghanxi

Monday: 207 km – to Buitenpos, just over the Namibian border  TWO HUNDRED AND SEVEN KILOMETERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE MOST I HAVE EVER DONE IN A DAY

Tuesday: 162 km – to Witvlei

Wednesday: 159 km – to Windhoek

Thursday: Rest day in Windhoek



Deon left this morning at 8AM already. I am on my own again for the last two weeks...

The Sarge also lost his EFI this week unfortunately, because Namibia requires him to have a visa. He is from Trinidad. He now had to go back to Gaborone to the Namibian embassy there and will catch up with us as soon as he has his visa. I feel very sad for him, because he was very determined to cycle everything and now this. We all miss his enthusiasm around camp.

Strong cross and tail winds did not make the 207km day any easier. We made it to camp at 6PM with a few stops to help repair flat tyres and a long stop at the border.

Things have changed so much now. The camp sites are really luxurious and everything you need is readily available. I think I actually miss all the chaos… we are going back to all things “normal”, things we are used to again.

Traversing Zambia

6 – 11 April
Zambezi  Zone – Lilongwe to Lusaka
Wednesday: 152km – Lilongwe to Mama Rula’s camp (Crossed Border)
Thursday: 177km – to Zulu Kraal
Friday: 141km – To School camp
Saturday: 148km – to Jehovah school camp
Sunday: 104km – to Lusaka
Monday: Rest day in Lusaka

So Zambia is really hilly - Rolling hills all the way to Lusaka. It probably makes the day far more interesting, but so much more challenging for me.  On Saturday we, the five South Africans (well originally – Ryan made Ireland his home a few years ago, Andre just returned from working in the Cayman Islands for 5 years, Peter, the wildcat, is an Australian Crocodile Dundee, who moved to SA in 1973 and Deon and me – well we left SA only for 2 years to live in Ghana as expats) met up with the “Three Farmers and a Greek”, 4 men travelling from Cape Town to Cairo on their motorcycles. 

The day actually needed a lot of organizing from Theresa. We all cycled together from the morning, although we never do as Peter and Ryan are normally in the front. Theresa was in contact with the four bikers all day to find out where they were and a few kilometres after lunch we caught up with them. Us five silent moving cyclists with our skinny, Lycra cycling tights with the four burly South-African men on their big machines. We shared some stories of what to expect on the upcoming routes and took some photos. Then they were off on their motorbikes, making a loud noise and like thunder they went off and you could see the envy in the eyes of the guys. Well for a few minutes and off we went again, pedalling softly on our journey to Cape Town.

Lusaka is a very nice city. It is described as “dull” in the Lonely Planet. But it was actually enjoyable to cycle into a clean, tidy city for a change. We even went to see a movie in the Arcade Mall.


12 – 16 April
Lusaka to Livingston
Tuesday: 158km to Oasis camp
Wednesday: 182km to Ruze Chalets
Thursday: 151km to Vic Falls
Friday and Saturday: Rest days at the Vic Falls

From Lusaka the roads are very flat. So it looks like it is going to be like this all the way to Windhoek. The landscape changed again from luscious forest to more open bush lands.  In Livingston we are staying here at the Waterfront Chalets. It is amazing and right on the Zambezi River.  Yesterday morning we went canoeing for the morning down the River. This time of year after the rain season, the river is very full. So the white water rafting is not done, because of the high level of water. We canoed over the rapids and it was only little movements in the water. We were put in the water in 2 person inflatable canoes, 30min’s drive from our Hotel. Then we drifted down the river for 15km’s. Our morning was blessed with a group of elephants on the banks of the river, lying against the bank and rolling in the sand. In the afternoon we visited the falls. We were sprayed with water and  got completely wet! It was amazing, something like 500 mil litres of water flow over the falls per minute!

Destination Lilongwe

19 – 27 March
Arusha to Mbeya
Saturday: To Maguga, 142km on paved road
Sunday: To Katesh 95km, beginning of dirt road
Monday - Friday: 121, 107, 114, 124, and 124 km dirt to Mangalosi
Saturday:  111km dirt to Mbeya from 1265 m to 2961m at the highest point to end at 2470m
Sunday: Rest day in Mbeya

This was definitely one of the hardest sections of the tour so far, but also my favourite one!  It started off really good with paved road, but where the Shwalbe Marathon PLUS MTB knobblies handle very well on the dirt and mud, they stuck to the tar – requiring more effort with every pedal.  I brought with me only this one pair of off-road 2.1 inch tyres. After the lava rock days in Northern Kenya most of the knobblies was cut off and the blue layer of puncture protection was showing. I continued cycling with this pair of tyres throughout this whole section without any problems. I did also put a layer of puncture protection in. (plastic liners)

On the second day we started with the dirt roads and also the rain started pouring down – heavily! This made the dirt road even more challenging, but at the same time it was loads of fun sliding around in the mud!  We completed the day all wet and dirty. The locals sheltering from the rains seemed very amused by us “mzungu’s”* racing by on our bikes and funny latex gear.

At camp the rain did not stay away and we all stood under the tarps of the trucks having dinner.  I learned a valuable lesson about the ground sail under my tent: It must be smaller than the tent; otherwise if it sticks out on the sides, the water will flow in between the sail and the tent and come into your tent from the bottom! This will cause you to lie in a puddle and your clothes and back to get very wet…

Every day we cycled in the most amazing sceneries – like the Africa of your dreams would look like! Dirt roads, luscious plant growth, friendly local people who work on their farm lands.  Apparently there are not a lot of these roads left in East Africa.  Unfortunately it seems like the Chinese are tarring every road…

The last day was very challenging over a big distance and climbing so much. I cycled until 17:40! Arriving in Mbeya, tired and finished, Alice luckily already organized a hotel room for us at the Livingstone Hotel.  The Doctor was not in.

28 March – 5 April
Malawi Gin – Mbeya to Lilongwe
Monday – 128km
Tuesday – 123km to Chitimba beach camp
Wednesday – rest day in Chitimba
Thursday – 135km to Mzuza
Friday – 125km to Luviri
Saturday – 109km to Kasungu
Sunday – 130km to Lilongwe
Monday and Tuesday – Rest days in Lilongwe

On Monday, Deon (my husband) joined me. He will be cycling from Lilongwe to Windhoek with me. Already he has cleaned my bike “properly” – as my efforts of yesterday did not make his standard… He also fitted my tyres the right way, as I did it with the arrows of the Shwalbe’s showing backwards. hehe Think we are going to have loads of fun!  I also made him shop for 2 hours.  After the 8 very tough days in Tanzania, the 2 riding days and then the rest day at the beach camp was very welcoming! This was a proper rest day – as we lay around all day on the coaches next to the beach with a perfect view over the Lake Malawi with Tanzania on the other side.  I did nothing but read my book, eat and nap.

The rest of the week was tough again for me with a lot of climbs! Saturday was a treat however, with more downs than ups… and I arrived in camp at 11:15 already. Along the road we met up with loads of interesting locals. From the children who beg for money, for “TWO PENS”, a playstation? Then there was Smart, yes that is his name, who explained to me and Beate what the white chip form stuff next to the road is, what we thought are cheese. It is actually cassava that they dry and then deep fry in oil and flour. Cassava is the root of a tree and it looks like a mix between a carrot and a sweet potato.  Also met Benjamin that cycles a “bicycle taxi”, like a lot of other locals.  He has a nice seat with a cushion on the back rack of his bicycle, even with handlebars at the back and place for the passenger’s feet. He asks 2500 Malawe Kwacha (about US$13) for a ride from the one town to the next that is almost 20km.

*what we are called in Swahili

A special team member joins

Tomorrow our heroine will be joined by husband Deon in Lilongwe.  He will be cycling on his own bike, they won't be on a tandem.  All the way to Windhoek (I think).  Will fresh legs beat tired ones?  Will the thousands of training kilometers mean the newbie will be left behind?  Watch this blog for all the details.